Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Camp II
Key Information
  • Duration:23 Days
  • Trip Grade: Strenuous
  • Max. Altitude:6812M.

The normal route to climb Mount Ama Dablam is from its South- West Ridge. Most of the mountaineering beginners start their climbing through this Mount. Ama Dablam 6812meters, Ama Dablam is a small snow-capped peak of 6812m lying in the Everest region. This South - West ridge is the normal and most popular route to ascend the Mt. Ama Dablam This Mountain is considered to be the most technical & difficult to climb. The Mountaineers have to cross-difficult ice rocks and steep snow climbing one their climbing route. Mountaineers usually have to pitch 3 high camps on the mountain of mount Ama Dablam 6812m.

To reach the first camp from base camp, the climbers have to pass the toughest and the difficult passing through the difficult saddle ridges; and then should turn to the north climbing up through the rocky ground and through the boulder. We are in Camp one now. From Camp I - one has to cross the rocky bowl and should climb the ridge via to the fixed lines to Camp II. From Camp II after crossing over severe rocks and ridge which lead you to a camp 2.

Ama Dablam ExpeditionThe climbing route from Camp II is mostly with the steep mixed alleyways of rock, ice, and snow. The route leads to the slope climb to snow ground and then passes through steep snow and ice tunnel then finally along the snow ridge go camping III, From here to the summit, it is steep climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier. From the Top of mount Ama Dablam very charming sceneries of Mount Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8516m, Island peak, Makalu 8463m, Khumbu Himalayan and rest of the snowcapped surrounded mountains can be envisioned.

Itinerary

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On arrival at the Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu Halesi Treks Pvt.Ltd will transfer to the hotel. Overnight in Hotel

  • Max. Altitude: 1,350m.
  • Accommodation: Hotel

After breakfast in our hotel, we may wander around nearby areas and do some shopping for our adventurous trip the following day. In the afternoon Formal briefing at the Ministry of Tourism. We pre-trip discussion and meet our trekking guide as well as other participants. You will also be briefed on the nature of the expedition, equipment, and team composition. Later, we will go back to our hotel and. overnight in hotel.

  • Accommodation: Hotel

40 min flight, 3-4 hours trek. After breakfast, we drive to the airport for our flight to Lukla. After flying above the breathtaking lush hills and snow-capped mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains. At Lukla, we meet the rest of our staff members and begin our trek to Phakding. To assist in acclimatization, we only have a short hike today. Overnight in tea house.

  • Max. Altitude: 2,652m
  • Accommodation: Tea house

We begin trekking after breakfast. Our trail passes through pine forests and we also walk alongside the Dudh Koshi River. We continue our trek through lush pine, fir and juniper forests, cross a few suspension bridges and reach Namche Bazaar. The small town is the main trading center of the Everest region. Overnight in tea house. 

  • Max. Altitude: 3,440m
  • Accommodation: Tea house
  • Duration: 5-6 hours.

This is the day set aside for acclimatization. Health experts recommend that we stay active and move around even during the rest day instead of being idle. There are a few options set aside for this day. We can hike up to the Everest View Hotel and enjoy an up-close view of the mighty Everest. While in the Namche village or upon returning from the hike to the Everest View Hotel, trekkers may also visit the local museum containing exhibits displaying the area’s native flora and fauna as well as the history of the Mount Everest region. Overnight in tea house

  • Max. Altitude: 3,440 m
  • Accommodation: Tea house

The trek continues along the rushing glacial waters of the Dudh Kosi, with magnificent views of the mountains. We trek to an altitude of 3860 meters today. After five hours we’ll reach Tengboche, where the local monastery can be seen. Inside the monastery are incredibly ornate wall hangings, a twenty-foot sculpture of Buddha, and the musical instruments and robes of the Lamas. The group will be taken to observe a prayer ceremony in either the evening or morning, depending on how the day’s trekking progressed. Overnight in tea house.

  • Max. Altitude: 3860 m
  • Accommodation: Tea house
  • Duration: 5 hrs

The trail drops to Debuche crosses suspension bridge on the Imja Khola and climbs to Pangboche among thousands of mani stones. Pangboche is a scenic village surrounded by Everest to its north, Ama Dablam, Thamserku. Overnight in tea house.

  • Max. Altitude: 3930m
  • Accommodation: Tea house
  • Duration: 3-4 hours.

We begin today crossing the Dudh Koshi River. Next, we ascend on a trail which will take us to the Ama Dablam Base Camp. The Base Camp is large and open grassland at the foot of Mt. Ama Dablam. Overnight in Tent camp.

  • Max. Altitude: 4570m
  • Accommodation: Tent camp
  • Duration: 4-5 hours.

Our guides will provide training on peak climbing techniques and the best ways of using climbing gear such as the ice axe, climbing boots, crampons, harness, ascender etc. The training will also include using ropes for climbing both up and down. The training will boost our confidence and climbing skills, thus increasing our chance of a successful summit of the mountain. Overnight in Tent camp.

  • Accommodation: Tent camp

 We do not provide a day-to-day itinerary for the climbing period, as this will be determined by the expedition leader and members. Guides will take a flexible approach based on what fits with climbers’ and their own experience. Typically, the team will spend a few days at the base camp organizing food, practicing rope skills, and acclimatizing before moving above the base camp. It is normal to ‘tag,’ or spend at least one night in Camp 1 (5700m), as part of any acclimatization schedule before returning to the base camp, resting, and preparing for a summit push.
Ama Dablam climbs via southwest ridge After leaving the base camp old grassy moraine ridges are followed roughly eastwards to a broad saddle 5150m from where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle, we ascend easily northwards until the ground steepens at the start of a large boulder field. We may place an advanced base camp at 5400m below the boulder field. The route continues north around the base of the boulder field, and then follows cairns upward to the toe of the southwest ridge. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, allowing access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1. There are four or five tent platforms.
From Camp 1 we contour around the snowy bowl (possible alternative site for Camp 1) until we are below two rock fingers. The east side of the ridge is followed, climbing easy mixed ground until a short pitch of “severe” standard leads to the ridge proper. The ridge is narrow in places, with difficult turns on the east side, until the second tension traverse leads to two pitches of “very severe” standard. The route continues on the crest of the ridge for a short distance until we are forced via an awkward step onto the west side of the ridge. The crest of the ridge is regained and easily navigable roads followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the Yellow Tower. This 15-meter pitch, just below Camp 2, is one of the hardest pitches on the climb at VHS (5.8) standard. A short section of ridge now leads to Camp 2 (5900m). Camp 2 has very limited tent space (three or four tent platforms) and is extremely exposed. It is sometimes only used to store equipment dump, with expeditions choosing to go from Camp 1 to Camp 3 in a single push.
From Camp 2, the climb skirts a red rock bluff on the east and, after a step-down, follows the snow ridge directly to a tricky traverse east. This leads to a gully between the Grey Tower and the lower rock buttress. We climb the gully until a very exposed traverse line is reached on the west side of the ridge. A short snow slope is ascended, allowing us to reach the start of the Mushroom Ridge. Following this typically involves negotiating some steep snow sections, until Camp 3 (6300m) is reached.
The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp 3 and to the right-hand side of Dablam. We continue to skirt Dablam on the right, then moving west to gain a small snowfield below the Bergschrund. The Bergschrund is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the ice crest above. This is followed by a magnificent climb to the summit. The climb from Camp 3 to the summit is relatively less technical. After summiting the peak, we return back to the base camp. Overnight at Tent camp.

  • Accommodation: Tent camp

    We descend to Namche Bazaar (3441m). Overnight in tea house.

    • Max. Altitude: 3441 m
    • Accommodation: Tea house
    • Duration: 6 hrs

    We return to Lukla (3404m) we’ll take time to reflect on the trek as a group, and the personal achievements of all who took part. Evening all together farewell party. Overnight in the teahouse.

    • Max. Altitude: 2804m
    • Accommodation: Tea house
    • Duration: 6 hrs.

    On the scenic thirty minute flight back to Kathmandu, Overnight in hotel.

    • Accommodation: Hotel

    Trip Cost Details

    What's Included
    • Airport / Hotel / Airport pick up & drop by private vehicle.
    • Standard twin sharing accommodation in Kathmandu; Breakfast included
    • All your standard Meals during the lodge to lodge trek (Breakfasts, Lunches and Dinners)
    • Guesthouses accommodation during the trek (Twin sharing )
    • Full board meal during the camping at base camp, prepared by our cook with hot Tea & coffee
    • All base camp and Advance base camp camping gears (We will provide fully dining tents, kitchen gears, dining table, chairs, toilet tents, shower tent at the base camp and advance base camp)
    • High quality Climbing tents for all camps.
    • Insurance for all Nepali staffs and porters including helicopter rescue provision.
    • Boiled and purify drinking water at base camp.
    • Ama Dablam Expedition permits
    • Liaison officer and his round trip flight, insurance, wages, expedition equipments etc.
    • High altitude climbing food, fuel, Gas- above base camp (you are also advised to bring some high altitude food yourselves)
    • Guide, cook, porters, helpers up to base camp
    • Climbing Sherpas (each a member = 1 Sherpa )
    • A well stocked first aid and medical kit sufficient to counter any possible mountaineering ailments, from headache to serious injury
    • Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for helicopter evacuation.
    • Farewell dinner for members in Kathmandu.
    • Flight cost from Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu including airport departure tax at both airport.
    • All our government taxes and vat.
    What's not Included
    • Lunch and dinner whilst in Kathmandu.
    • Travel insurance which covers emergency Rescue and Evacuation. (See the travel insurance page)
    • Sightseeing/Monument entrance fees in Kathmandu.
    • Oxygen, A portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow bag)
    • International airfare and airport
    • Nepal entry visa fee
    • Alcoholic and cold drinks
    • Personal trekking and climbing Equipment
    • Tips for trekking staff and driver (Tipping is expected, see info below).
    • Any others expenses which are not mentioned on
    • Allow $50-100 for general non-sherpa crew who stay at base camp.
    • Allow $100-200 for sherpas who go up to the base camp.
    • Summit climbing Sherpa US$ 200 – 400 per Sherpa
    Dates & Availability

    The below-given cost is per person and the below-given fixed departure dates are available for you. If the given date is not favorable then please contact us and we will happily customize your trip on dates more appropriate for you.

    Useful Information

    Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu flight may be delayed by few hours or even canceled due to bad weather condition. So, you should be prepared for such flight delays or cancellations. But we will do our best to avoid such conditions. In case of flight cancellation, we will try to get you on the flight for the next day. Getting early flight for the next day may not be possible during the high season so, we can arrange flight by helicopter as well but it will be an extra cost. If we have a group of 4- 5 people, we can charter a helicopter from Kathmandu – Lukla.  It will be advisable to have extra days in Kathmandu before and after the trekking. We can arrange you cultural / adventure tours (such as sightseeing tours, rafting, jungle safari, with extra cost if the extra days are not used for the flight conditions to Lukla and back.

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